Q. We have recently moved into a 1960s colonial. There is a room next to the kitchen and next to the lobby of the living room that we want to use as a formal dining room. We wondered about other lighting options in addition to a chandelier. We did not check the prices for the electrical work and drywall installation, but we wondered if a floor lamp or two would also be a cost effective and attractive solution. I have never really seen or heard of floor lamps used in a formal dining room, so I do not know how that would happen. Which options and which direction might be the best?
A. I'm sure you have already eaten in a romantic and dimly lit restaurant. Is it the mood you want? If this is the case, the floor lamps would probably be sufficient. Although they look weird, a better choice would be to choose buffets placed on a buffet server or on a coffee table. Or wall lights, but it would involve, again, to call an electrician to install them. However, if you use the room more for informal family-style meetings, it will probably be too dark and too dark on the table and create a bad mood.
An electrician will not charge much for installing the chandelier. There is not much. Spend money and have one installed. Whichever way you decide to go, make sure at least one dimmer is installed. You will be happy to have done it!
In addition, when choosing the fixture, the diameter of the chandelier should be about half the width of the table and the bottom of the light should be 30 inches above the table for a ceiling of 8 feet – you can go slightly higher for a room. with higher ceiling. Or, for a 12×12 piece or less, use a 20 to 24 inch chandelier, and for 14×14 pieces or larger, use a 25 to 30 inch chandelier.
Q. My house is set up so that my living room is now the dining room, because the people who owned it had previously made the garage attached to the house a large room. The dining room was paneled and I chose to paint it in yellow with an extra texture that you can buy to add to your painting, which would give it an aspect of the past. The woodwork is light in color, there is a large bay window on one wall and another slightly larger window on another wall. I should also say that the room measures 15 "3" wide and 16 "4" long. I've hung blue transparent curtains with a v-shaped valance with tassels. The table and the bench of this room are in light wood, the floor is hardwood which must be restored but it is in good condition and I plan to grease a large central carpet stencil. The hangings are a white mirror and sconces with blue candles, a birdhouse with a glass shelf and another photo of tea cups made in a blue canvas and a white frame. I also have a built-in square shadow box with a mirror behind and the darkest wood stain in the room – almost a black cherry color – but does not match the other woodwork that is an average wood / clear. . I just can not get the piece together. I thought maybe a curtain of impression would change the atmosphere of the room. How can I add texture for this piece to come together?
A. This is probably the most common problem that people are asking themselves. You have several solid colors that you like, but the room is dead. That's because you need model. If you can find the printed curtains and get a patterned carpet to place under the table, containing blue and yellow, everything will be tied. You can throw some red somewhere to help tie the red kitchen.
Q. I'm looking for color ideas for my living room. It has high vaulted ceilings, and is currently all white ceilings and walls. We plan to replace almost all the furniture, so let's start with a blank slate. I prefer peaceful colors, serene and inspired by nature and I love the amount of natural light that the room receives. However, the entourage of the fireplace is in pink blue marble. I am not a fan of pink. I envisioned a pale creamy white for the walls, with shades of earthy chocolate, sage green and red for furniture and using a lot of different textures for accents, but the yellow tones in the cream just do not work not with the rose. No suggestion?
A. Yes, redo the corner of the fireplace! It is not so difficult, and like that, it ruins everything! If you get all the new furniture and paint, then it's a major redesign. Do not work around something you hate, it easily changes into something you love. You can remove and replace what is there, or tile / stucco / panel / paint.
Q. I am preparing to paint in the kitchen, the breakfast room, the family room, the dining room and the fireplace. We have a large open design and all these parts are connected by curved openings with rounded corners. I would love to do different colors, but I wonder how to change color from one room to another with rounded corners. And what would it look like if two colors met on a rounded corner?
A. Depending on whether you prefer a contemporary or traditional style, you can apply some kind of faux finish or paint treatment right under the arch of each door. For example, draw a two-inch chalk line on the outside of each door and paint inside this area with a neutral such as beige, beige / white, or even white if you practice contemporary and you have white skirting boards. You can even "set" the transition space with an extra area of color, such as a contrasting 1 "color like this: Yellow Kitchen / 1" Blue Line / White Door / 1 "Yellow Line / blue salon.
Even if you do not want to use the two-color version, keeping the inside of each arch white, especially if the other woodwork is white, will help you make the transition between each area. Otherwise, you engage in a great debate about the color of the room to be placed in the vaulted area. I would be tempted to paint some sort of "molding" on the wall of about two inches, on both sides of the door. But if the rounded edge is slightly rounded, you can get away by drawing a straight line. in the middle of the curved edge.
A completely different idea would be to use the same color for all connected pieces and create an accent wall in each piece, choosing a wall without a curved opening. In this way, all the pieces would flow together, but each could have its own color.
Q. I have a living room and a dining room on the same wall that are only separated by our front door, which leaves about a foot of wall space above the door. Since this part of the wall has no corner or molding, do you have any suggestions for changing color from room to room?
A. You really can not. Changing the paint colors in the middle of the walls looks horrible, even if it's only 12 "above a door.This is a big no-no Change only the colors in the inside or outside corners Choose a color that will fit both spaces Then, if you still want to have two different colors in each space, make an accent wall in one or both two spaces of different colors.
Q. I'm building a new house. It will have medium oak kitchen cabinets and I expect the same for doors, baseboards, and so on. I plan to have moldings in the entrance, the dining room, the hallway and the kitchen. I wonder if it is "okay" to have painted moldings and wooden baseboards? Or, do you have to dye the moldings to match the skirting boards? My husband thinks we should stain because you can still paint on the stain, but it's not so easy to stain once you've painted. By the way, most of my furniture is also in medium oak. I plan to keep the colors of my wall neutral, along beige or beige lines. The floor plan is very open – large arch from the lobby to the great room, open dining room on two sides and large windows to the other. Then I want to paint the ceiling of the big room a little darker because it is very big – it rises to a height of 18 feet. I was sort of applying the rule of thumb to paint the ceiling a darker tone if it exceeds 9 feet and two or three shades lighter if two feet or less. Ideas?
A. Color the moldings for continuity. Why bother to ask if you want to paint it? What color would you paint? There is no "general rule" that you have to paint the high ceilings with a darker shade than the walls. Only If you want to visually lower the ceiling to comfort the room, do it. If you like high ceilings and want maximum opening and ventilation, keep them the same or lighter than walls.
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